The Diversity of Korean Home Brewing Culture
I've mentioned the well-developed home brewing culture (Gayangju) in Korea several times already. While this might seem like a somewhat tedious topic, I believe reading "The Loss of Brewing Diversity: Colonial Impact on Korean Alcohol Traditions" could be helpful for those interested.
The Gayangju culture means that each household developed their own unique brewing methods, resulting in incredibly diverse ways to make makgeolli. While grains are the main ingredients, various supplementary ingredients were often used. But more importantly, what characterises traditional Korean brewing is the process of dividing fermentation into multiple stages.
In this article, we'll explore these various methods of making makgeolli.
I've mentioned the well-developed home brewing culture (Gayangju) in Korea several times already. While this might seem like a somewhat tedious topic, I believe reading "The Loss of Brewing Diversity: Colonial Impact on Korean Alcohol Traditions" could be helpful for those interested.
The Gayangju culture means that each household developed their own unique brewing methods, resulting in incredibly diverse ways to make makgeolli. While grains are the main ingredients, various supplementary ingredients were often used. But more importantly, what characterises traditional Korean brewing is the process of dividing fermentation into multiple stages.
In this article, we'll explore these various methods of making makgeolli.
Various Ways to Make Makgeolli
There are several methods to make makgeolli (Korean rice wine). You can mix all ingredients at once and put them directly into the fermentation tank to begin the fermentation process (this type of alcohol is called "Danyangju" or single-stage brew). Alternatively, you can add ingredients in two or three separate stages. When the process involves adding ingredients twice, we call it "Iyangju" (two-stage brew), and when done three times, it's called "Samyangju" (three-stage brew).
Some breweries might extend this to four or five stages, but commercial breweries don't increase the number of stages unnecessarily because each additional stage extends the fermentation time, which affects production efficiency. While Danyangju ferments all at once, Iyangju and more complex brews divide the ingredient addition process, creating distinct steps called "Mitsul" and "Deotsul."
"Mitsul" is the first step when making Iyangju or more complex brews. This could be best described in English as a "fermentation starter." "Deotsul" refers to the stage where additional nutrients are introduced to the brew. For any brew more complex than Danyangju, this step-by-step addition of ingredients helps reduce the chances of failed fermentation.
The Purpose and Process of Multiple-Stage Fermentation in Makgeolli
When ingredients are added more than once, the first step is creating "Mitsul" (starter culture), which typically ferments for about two days. The main purpose of this stage is to multiply yeast cells. If fermentation continued in this state alone, the yeast would eventually stop multiplying because while the number of microorganisms increases, the available nutrients gradually deplete.
This is when "Deotsul" (secondary mash) is added. The purpose of this addition is to expand the cultivation of the multiplied yeast cells. This process helps raise the alcohol content quickly and creates a stable brewing environment. Importantly, during the yeast multiplication stage, rice is typically used in a powdered form—either by making a porridge with hot water or by steaming it into rice cakes before grinding it into powder.
As explained in "Yeast vs. Enzymes: The Invisible Forces Behind Fermentation and Brewing," alcohol production involves converting starch into sugar and then into alcohol. Rice is ground and heated to more easily convert starch into glucose. After this initial starter culture process, the final stage always involves adding steamed rice (godubap) in its whole grain form.
In two-stage brewing (Iyangju), steamed rice is added during the second stage, while in three-stage brewing (Samyangju), it's added during the third stage. The brewing then enters a longer fermentation period until these rice grains break down completely.
In the past, there was no way to maintain a constant temperature, so all brewing relied on natural fermentation. This led to seasonal brewing methods: three-stage brewing (Samyangju) was preferred in winter, two-stage brewing (Iyangju) in spring and fall, and single-stage brewing (Danyangju) in summer.
Differences Between Single-Stage and Multi-Stage Makgeolli
What's the difference between "Danyangju" (single-stage brew) and alcoholic beverages made through multiple stages? First, Danyangju has a lighter body. Since all ingredients are added at once, rapid saccharification occurs, leaving little residual sugar, which results in stronger acidity and tends to produce a lower alcohol content.
In contrast, "Samyangju" (three-stage brew) has a heavier body. The multiple additions of ingredients create deeper flavours and rich aromas. It typically has a stronger sweetness and higher alcohol content.
Traditionally, the culture of making alcohol through multiple stages evolved from home brewing practices. Experience showed that starting with a small batch of "Mitsul" (starter culture) and gradually adding more raw materials increased the chances of successful fermentation.
It's impossible to say which method produces "better" alcohol. Today, we can control temperature and fermentation environments well, allowing brewers to use different methods according to their preferences. This variety gives consumers the pleasure of enjoying many different types of traditional alcoholic beverages.
