The Decline of Traditional Home Brewing
The Joseon Dynasty was the era of home brewing. Each household maintained its own unique recipes, creating an unimaginably diverse brewing culture. However, this rich tradition faced a dramatic decline with the onset of Japanese colonial rule. When Japan colonised Korea, they needed funds to govern the territory. Their solution was to implement a liquor tax system. This tax law served two purposes: controlling Korea's traditional brewing culture while introducing Japanese brewing methods. The colonial government forced the replacement of Korean nuruk with Japanese koji and introduced refined sake, which led to the standardisation of Korean alcohol production.
In 1934, taxation alone wasn't enough - the colonial government completely banned home brewing. This marked a fundamental shift: alcohol was no longer something to be made at home but a commodity to be purchased. The high liquor tax forced many breweries to close, steadily reducing their numbers. The few remaining breweries, which received special privileges from Japan, became highly profitable. This system benefited both the privileged breweries and the Japanese government, which could now collect more tax revenue more efficiently through a smaller number of controlled producers.
What Can and Cannot Be Standardised
Standardisation essentially means establishing a foundation for mass production. While mass production can increase economic value, the story changes when this economic aspect borders on exploitation. What remains is just the loss of inherent value. This is what the Japanese colonial period left behind in Korea. And after liberation, Korea was unable to reverse its standardised alcohol culture. The home brewing traditions we once had gradually disappeared.
Japan standardised koji production methods, but they maintained regional characteristics in brewing techniques and respected each brewery's unique secrets. This approach, I believe, has allowed sake to find its place globally today. Preserving diversity and creativity in the brewing process maintains a balance between tradition and modernisation.
Did France ever try to standardise wine, a beverage loved worldwide? Wine represents the exact opposite of standardisation and uniformity, yet it's a successful example of globalisation. France legally protected and differentiated regional characteristics and uniqueness. They created quality standard systems but refused to make wine uniform – that's what made their success possible.
Oppressing rather than respecting inherent values tramples on the potential for growth. Yet, the fact that Korea's standardised diluted soju ranks as the world's best-selling spirit demonstrates just how much Koreans love alcohol.
I wrote this to reflect on the right direction for Korean alcoholic beverages to evolve. I am not blaming historical events but rather accepting this history as it is, acknowledging where reflection might be needed. While contemplating the future path of Korean alcohol. I've realised how much we can learn from wine and sake about respecting diversity and how this respect can lead to tremendous development.
As I conclude this writing...
Creating alcoholic beverages means producing fermented food. Fermented foods achieve their goal only when the maker surrenders their position to nature and time. It's actually a concept that can't be matched with the term "mass production."
As I've been studying how to make Korean alcoholic beverages and pondering how Korea's standardised spirits could be modernised to reach more consumers, I wanted to briefly share these thoughts that have crossed my mind.
