The Rising Trend of High-Alcohol Makgeolli
Most of the makgeolli we commonly drink has an alcohol content of around 6-8%. This is true whether you're looking at the bottles occupying restaurant refrigerators, sold at your neighbourhood supermarket or convenience store, or available at Korean markets and Asian groceries in your area. Almost all of these fall within the 6-8% alcohol range.
Even today, when Koreans think of makgeolli, they still conjure up that familiar image and taste you probably know - meaning that if you've tried makgeolli before, you likely share the same concept of this beverage as most Koreans do, regardless of your nationality.
However, in recent years, we've been seeing a steady stream of higher alcohol content makgeolli entering the market. A growing number of enthusiasts are seeking out these "premium makgeolli" varieties, making efforts to discover their personal preferences among these options. This community of makgeolli explorers is gradually expanding. As this vibrant community of makgeolli enthusiasts continues to grow, there's never been a better time to explore the rich diversity this traditional Korean rice wine has to offer beyond the familiar varieties we've all come to know.
Understanding the Name and Process of Makgeolli
Let's first understand what the name "makgeolli" actually means. The term comes from the phrase meaning "just filtered." To make makgeolli, rice, water, and nuruk (a Korean fermentation starter) are mixed and fermented for a specific period until the alcohol is produced. The clear liquid from this mixture can be separated to make cheongju (clear rice wine), while the white, settled portion mixed with water becomes makgeolli.
This white, settled portion contains living microorganisms that continue to ferment even after bottling, causing the flavour to change over time. (For a deeper understanding, you might want to read "Makgeolli Microbiology: Understanding Korea's Living Rice Wine and Its Pasteurised Counterpart.")
When the clear part of the fermented alcohol is filtered, it becomes "cheongju," which has a production method very similar to Japanese sake. (Korea actually produces its own cheongju as well, but I'll limit the historical discussion here as it would require addressing complicated historical issues.)
The word "cheongju" means "clear alcohol," presenting an image quite opposite to makgeolli. During the Joseon Dynasty, cheongju was the drink of choice for the noble class. Meanwhile, makgeolli—the white, cloudy drink made by mixing water with the settled sediment—was consumed by common people. This is why makgeolli has historically represented the most popular, everyday alcoholic beverage in Korea.
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This humble drink with its deeply rooted image as a common person's beverage has been gradually transforming. Since the early 2000s, the fixed perceptions surrounding makgeolli began to break down. Breweries started producing versions with alcohol content exceeding 10%, introducing changes in packaging, and making various attempts to increase the product's value.
Unlike the traditional makgeolli that could be gulped down quickly, these new varieties established clear differentiation, contributing to the formation of a premium makgeolli market.
Mordern Brewing and Premium Makgeolli
In modern breweries, the initial fermentation can produce alcohol content averaging 15-18%. Furthermore, when using special yeast strains with high alcohol tolerance instead of traditional nuruk, brewers can increase the alcohol content to 18-20%. This level of control is possible because modern brewing technology allows for consistent production in controlled environments.
In contrast, traditional methods relied solely on natural fermentation, likely resulting in lower alcohol content than what we can achieve today. Adding my personal perspective, I believe makgeolli's characteristic as a popular, common person's beverage meant that producers needed to dilute the alcohol content to make larger quantities available for communal consumption.
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When premium makgeolli is produced, less water is added to the fermented base, and more rice is required (especially when artificial sweeteners are avoided). This increases production costs but results in a higher quality beverage. In our modern era, while we still maintain the image of drinking together, we've lost the concept of sharing drinks communally as was once common.
Premium makgeolli, with its higher alcohol content, is designed to differentiate itself in the market and target specific consumers. The number of people falling under its spell continues to grow steadily.
Characteristics of Premium Makgeolli
These premium makgeolli varieties share some common characteristics. First, they have a notably heavier body since they're not diluted with large amounts of water. The higher starch content creates a weightier texture in the final product. Additionally, because of the higher rice content, these premium versions tend to be sweeter even without added sweeteners.
I often find myself contemplating what kind of makgeolli I should produce. While I can't predict how my perspective might change over time, my current inclination is to create a drink that remains accessible to the general public. (Of course, being able to produce both types would be an ideal scenario.)
Most alcoholic beverages have their premium versions, but when it comes to makgeolli—which still lacks the recognition of other spirits internationally—I believe prioritising broader appeal is important. Making makgeolli more widely accessible could be the foundation that eventually supports a thriving premium market.
If you've had the chance to try premium makgeolli, which style do you prefer? Do you enjoy the heavier, more complex notes of high-alcohol varieties, or do you favor the lighter, more refreshing character of traditional makgeolli?
