Rice Makgeolli and Wheat Flour Makgeolli
Most makgeolli produced today is made from rice. Even during the Joseon Dynasty, when Korea's home brewing culture was at its peak before Japanese occupation, rice was primarily used for brewing alcohol. Rice makgeolli is generally considered more flavourful than wheat makgeolli, which is why rice is the main ingredient nowadays. However, there was a period when makgeolli was commonly made with wheat flour. In this article, I'll discuss both rice makgeolli and wheat flour makgeolli.
Makgeolli's Market Marginalisation
In 1965, the government announced the Grain Management Act, prohibiting the brewing of alcohol with rice. Additionally, due to food shortages caused by the Korean War, laws were enacted that banned using rice for brewing alcohol. As a result, people began making makgeolli with imported wheat flour and corn. Compared to the clear, white appearance of rice makgeolli, wheat makgeolli has a murkier, yellowish colour. Wheat makgeolli also produces more foam, is less sweet than rice versions, and tends to be more sour, though it has a distinctive, somewhat thick appeal. Since wheat flour itself has a higher fermentability than rice, the production process is also shorter.
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However, during this period, many poorly fermented and under-matured wheat makgeolli products circulated in the market. This led to a negative perception among people that drinking wheat makgeolli caused headaches and severe hangovers. Later, in 1977, rice makgeolli production was temporarily permitted, but was banned again just two years later. As rice surpluses began to accumulate rapidly, production of rice makgeolli was once again authorised in 1990. However, by this time, the makgeolli market had significantly contracted. As urbanisation and industrialisation progressed, people began drinking soju, beer, and other imported alcohols, causing makgeolli to become less popular. One reason for the shrinking market was that manufacturers used imported rice or old domestic rice for economic reasons, which failed to create a distinctive taste. Additionally, makgeolli's old-fashioned image created the perception that it was a drink only consumed by rural people.
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While there are still places in Korea that produce wheat makgeolli, they are gradually decreasing. A well-made wheat makgeolli offers a rich flavour and substantial body that hits the back of the throat in a way that rice makgeolli doesn't. I hope these distinctive qualities of wheat makgeolli can be modernised to create various new wheat-based makgeolli products. Each ingredient has its unique charm, and if wheat makgeolli were to be produced through proper manufacturing processes, perhaps the negative perceptions would be viewed merely as growing pains from when we lacked proper systems and standards.
The Revival of the Makgeolli Market
In 2008, the makgeolli trend began to resurge. As the government provided various support to traditional liquor manufacturers, many makgeolli breweries started to emerge. With the birth of premium makgeolli, it began to transform into a drink to be savoured, and as varieties with new aromas and flavours increased, so-called 'makgeolli enthusiasts' began to grow in number. Unlike the previous image of makgeolli as 'old-fashioned,' packaging also began to change to more modern designs, attracting younger people's interest. Additionally, as more producers began making makgeolli using local specialties, we can now enjoy makgeolli with diverse colours, tastes, and aromas, and the makgeolli market continues to expand.
Both rice makgeolli and wheat makgeolli have their own histories as Korean traditional alcoholic beverages. I hope this market continues to grow so that we can enjoy regional makgeolli not only in Korea but also overseas. I believe rice is the most suitable ingredient for making makgeolli because it has higher saccharification power than any other grain. However, whether it's rice makgeolli or wheat flour makgeolli, they are both our traditional drinks with their own histories, and I believe that if we modernise them with proper manufacturing methods based on that history, excellent drinks that we can enjoy will be born.
